Surf Coach: By Shawn Tracht
Photos: Jeff Pfost
1. Going down the line, look for a crispy floater like section, or close out.
2. You need to think of it this way, you’re not putting your board on the lip, trying to spin, and stopping…rather, you’re spinning and also continuing down the line with speed as you crest on a section where you might usually do a floater.
3. When you get to the floater section, you must jump up and spin with the breaking wave. Basically, you need to spin ollie 180 your board into the space where the lip will be coming down. If you jump onto the lip where it is, you will spin but the wave will go by. This will be the hardest lesson to learn. You want to meet the cresting wave as it’s coming down towards the trough.
4. Your front foot needs to be above the lip as you’re free-falling backwards towards the beach. Again, you must have momentum towards the beach so that the wave carries you there, and doesn’t pass you by.
5. The moment of weirdness is when you’re backwards and you’re actually doing it, you’re going down the wave fakie. Usually at this point, it’s a little scary because you can’t see where you’re going. So…stay centered over your board, basically, don’t quit on yourself, and look where you want to go.
6. If you look where you want to go when the wave is hitting your fins, it will take you there.
7. After you pull the maneuver, paddle back like it happens all the time, whether it’s number 14,000 or number 1.
Now go shred!